Category Archives: Technical

for questions & answers or upkeep & performance hints regarding Mazdas

Technical Section – Q & A’s – Upkeep Hints

Please note: Questions and answers are provided for information and advice purposes. No liability either express or implied is assumed by reliance on the information presented either by the writers or the MC.

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Q:     I recently purchased a used 2008 Mazda 3 (manual transmission) with about 120,00 miles on it. Sometimes, when I attempt to shift from 2nd to 3rd, the gearshift sticks, and I’m unable to shift into 3rd. I have to pull over and repeatedly jiggle the gearshift to pop it out of second gear. Also, when stopped, I’ve sometimes had trouble putting the car into 1st. And, overall, shifting from 1st to 2nd is a little rough. The brake/clutch fluid is topped off, so it’s not that. And the clutch itself seems fine. Any ideas ?

LX Classic

A:     The solution to your issue is one of the three following things (ranked from most to least likely):

A new clutch. While the clutch material may well still have some life in it, the two halves of the disk have started to separate and they are still partially engaged even when you push the pedal all of the way to the floor.

A Clutch Master Cylinder and/or Clutch Slave Cylinder starting to fail. In this scenario, even when you push the pedal all of the way to the floor, the clutch pressure plate doesn’t fully release, and as with Option 1, the clutch disk is still partially engaged.

Low hydraulic fluid in the Clutch Master Cylinder. It could be you are pumping (or have pumped) some air into the hydraulic clutch line, and the air is compressing instead of pushing on the pressure plate to open it up all of the way. The clutch disk is still partially engaged.

Shio

Questions and Answers

Q: I just purchased an ‘88 Mazda 323 and installed the engine and transmission, I cannot get a spark to the plugs.. I have checked all the fuses, I have every thing hooked up. What are some things to check?

Rob

A: It could be no current to the ECU, the crank position sensor not working, or a bad coil pack. Each can be checked individual if you bring them in to auto shop.

Bob

Q: How much will it cost me to replace the suspension on Mazda CX-9? My car stopped on the road last night, had to tow it with a flat bed truck as the wheel was kind of coming out of the car, no chance to push it to the curb even, car wouldn’t move back or forth. Wondering how much the damage will be.

Maria

A: You didn’t list what broke. Let us guess. A lower ball joint broke and the CV-joint pulled out of the side of the transmission. If the lower A-frame didn’t tear loose from the flimsy sub-frame it will still cost a small fortune to fix. Hopefully the car is sitting at a Mazda door step so they can check the suspension pieces.

Roy

Q: The latest water trick from my 2006 MX-5 Miata is whenever it rains the trunk fills with water. I have identified the leak. It’s coming from where the rear of the soft top where it seals to the rear of the car. There seems to be a wiper seal that will divert the water to the interior drains behind the seats. Is there a adjustment I can make?

Morris

A: If you are talking about the black plastic trim that’s visible from outside the car, that’s not a seal. It’s there to keep the edge of the sheet metal and soft top from chafing against each other. There’s a rain rail / gutter system that collects whatever gets around the back edge of the soft top. The rain rail then carries any water to the drains you have already discovered. It’s a pain to get to the rain rail, as it requires removing the “parcel shelf” where the top sits when it is lowered. My guess is the rain rail is cracked.

Davis